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"The Rose of Mooncoin"
Comliments of
Barry Taylor at
Taylors Traditional Tunebook
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Notes about this site
Running along the eastern shore of the Missouri River, are the Loess Hills. The hills are a formation only 1 to 15 miles wide, east and west, and runs nearly 200 miles north and south from near Souix City, Iowa to St. Joseph, Missouri.
Although deposits of loess (pronounced "luss"), are found across the world, nowhere else but China do they reach as high as here, where some of the hills are more than 200 feet above the adjacent plains.You can see from this aerial view, the sharp contrasts between the hills and the adjacent plains.
At the end of the last Ice Age about 18,000 years ago, the waterway that eventually became known as the Missouri River, was a torrent of glacial runoff during the increasing warm spells.
However, as each winter set in, the waters
diminished, leaving behind soils that had been ground as fine as flour by the glaciers. Prevailing northwesterly winds blew the lightweight particles to the eastern bank where they tumbled from the sky, forming dunes.
The process repeated itself over thousands of years. Eventually topsoils evolved and a unique natural community developed.
During their early years, the hills were inhabited by Ice Age animals including the wooly mammoth, camel, giant beaver and sloth.
Stone tools, spear points, pottery and burial sites indicate that humans have inhabited the hills as long as 5,500 years ago.
By the time Lewis and Clark visited the area in 1804, the hills were occupied by Sioux, Omaha, Iowa, Pottawattamie and Oto Indians.
At that time, the hills were mostly prairie. Since then, the creation of farms, towns and roads have halted the wildfires that once swept the hills. Woodland plants and trees have now taken over many of the hills.
The region is rich in over 400 species of woodland and prairie plants.
The steep bluffs form a striking contrast to the surrounding broad flat floodplain and the gently rolling hills to the north and east. Only a fraction of the original Loess Hills prairie remains in a pristine state. They represent the largest tracts of virgin prairie found anywhere in Iowa today.
In those forested areas, if prairie plantlife exists, it is usually on the south and west slopes, which are warmed by the afternoon sun and dried by the wind to levels intolerable to all but prairie plants.
Although the prairie remains dominant on some hills, it's plants and animals have become isolated from others of their species. These are not found again until you travel hundreds of miles to the west. Thus, some prairie plants and animals, seen nowhere else in Iowa, endure in the hills.
Little bluestem, big bluestem, spear grass, tumble grass and buffalo grass are the dominant grasses. Among the other plants found only in the Loess Hills, are yucca, ten-petal blazing star, purple beardtongue, prairie colove and puccoons, and prairie moonwort.
Forests and woodlands cover much of today's hills. There are forests of cottonwood, grey dogwood, black red and bur oak covering the hill sides. Dominating ridge tops and exposed slide slopes are oak, ironwood, redbud, smooth dogwood and sumac
At present, many areas are experiencing an invasion of the eastern red cedar tree. These trees can form a thick growth pattern or be mixed with other species of woodlands and prairies.
In areas too steep for agriculture or housing, a woodland condition remains. This landscape serves as a hostorical record of the plant ecosystem.
Birds that are common to the region include mourning dove, cardinal, woodpecker, chickadee, eastern wood peewee, wild turkey, golden warbler, sparrows, western meadowlark and the eastern kingbird.
Sightings of the Bald Eagle have been increasingly reported. A nest was first reported in 1988. One can usually see a Bald Eagle when they visit the DeSoto Bend National Wildlife Refuge nearby.
Some of the animals are the prairie rattlesnake, plains pocket mouse, upland sandpiper, zebra swallowtail, ornate box turtle, Southern Bog Lemming and plains spadefoot toad.
Mammals most likely to be seen by visitors to the area include white tailed deer, red fox, coyote, shrew, prairie dogs, squirrels and voles.
The hills have peculiarities that are easily noticed. First, a look at any cut made in the hills will show mostly loess and little else. Only in a few places, as at Stone State Park and southern Fremont County, are rocks natrually exposed.
Second, loess has unique physically qualities. Remove the topsoil on the slope of a fill and the exposed loess will dissolve like sugar in the next rain.
Even when covered with topsoil, loess can "slump" often in a unified way across slope creating the "cat-step" ledges seen on some grassy hills.
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The Loess Scenic Byway
Points of Interest
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The Loess Hills Scenic Byway, consisting of over 200 miles of paved highway or county roads, gives the area visitor a convenient way to travel the hills from one end to the other. It runs parallel to Interstate 29 through Plymouth, Woodbury, Monona, Harrison, Pottawattamie, Mills and Fremont counties. The route was put together by a group of over 200 people with input from many more. A survey was taken, and the routes selected represent the best scenery available on public roads. The Byway also includes Historical Sites, Public Parks.
Bring your camera, but remember while you are here, please help us preserve the area's natural wonder and beauty.
Plymouth County
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Broken Kettle Grasslands....
The largest remnant of the prairie that once practically covered Iowa. This is where you will likely find the 10-petal blazing star. But be careful, there are prairie rattlers here. For tours 712-568-2596
Five Ridge Prairie...
A combination of prairie and woodlands. You will see a great climate change between the prairie and shadowy woods. Rugged hiking trails. 712-947-4270
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Akron Dunham Preserve....
Walk along the river, foot bridges and wildfowers.
LeMars Plymouth County Historical Museum....
County history plus 500 musical instruments that date from the King Tut dynasty of ancient Egypt to the present.
Open only summer 1-5
Woodbury County
Sioux City: Stone State Park....
1069 acres of prairie-topped ridges and dense woodlands. Overlooks of Nebraska, South Dakota and Iowa. Trails for hikers, bicyclists, horseback riders and snowmobilers. Shelters, RV and tent campsites with showers. This park is on the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. 712-255-4698
Sioux City: Loess Ridge Nature Center....
Devoted entirely to the Loess Hills. Live animal displays, hand-on exhibits, a butterfly garden and walk- through exhibit of life under the prairie. 712-258-0830
Sioux City: Sergeant Floyd Welcome Center and Riverboat Museum....
Former survey and inspection boat of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Open daily: 8-6 summer, 9-5 winter: call 712-279-4840
Sioux City: Sergeant Floyd Monument....
Sergeant Charles Floyd was the only person lost on the Lewis and Clark exploration. He is buried atop this bluff in August 1804.
Monona County
The Loess Hills Wildlife Area, Turin Loess Hills Nature Preserve and the Sylvan Runkel Preserve....
3 state areas that are very near each other, just north of Turin. 3500+ acres, they form the largest protected area in the hills. Great hiking 712-423-2426
Turin Man Archaeological Site....
The remains of 4 humans buried here 5,500 years ago and were discovered by a young girl in 1955. 712-423-1384
Lewis and Clark State Park....
Replicas of 2 boats of the kind used by Lewis and Clark. 712-423-2829
Ingemann Danish Lutheran Church....
Built in 1884
Preparation Canyon State Park....
Campsite of a group of Mormons, 1853. 7 backpack campsites, hiking and ski trails 712-243-2829
Loess Hills State Forest....
712-456-2924
Harrison County
Murray Hill Scenic Overlook....
One of the best overlooks in the hills. Trail through prairie grasses
DeSoto National Wildlife Refuge....
see
DeSoto Nat'l Wildlife Refuge
Missouri Valley, Harrison County Historical Village and Iowa Welcome Center....
9 historical buildings, agricultural displays and Indian artifacts (Nominal admission to the Village)712-642-2114
Dunlap: Lillian Ronk Garden....
Flowers, hand-crafted lawn ornaments, ponds 712-643- 5476
Wilson Island State Recreation Area (camping)....
Woodbine: Eby Drug....
1950's style soda fountain 712-647-2840
Woodbine: Lincoln Highway....
The longest remaining section of original brick road with unique marker posts and signs.
Woodbine: Willow Lake County Recreation Area....
Year-round cabins 712-647-2785
Pottawattamie County
Hitchcock Nature Area....
Woodlands plus restored and native prairies. Shelter and lodge with views across the hills. 712-328-5638
Squirrel Cage Jail....
1885 Lazy Susan jail in which the cells rotated to allow viewing of all cells from one vantage point. One of three left in the nation. 712-323-2509
General Dodge House....
1869 brick Victorian home of Civil War General Grenville Dodge. He was also the one who directed the construction of the first transcontinental railroad. 712-322-2406
RailsWest Railroad Museum:
Former Rock Island depot. Contains a large HO-scale model railroad 712-323-5182
Wabash Trace Nature Trail....
A 67 mile long hiking or biking trail. Listed as among the nation's top ten trails by Mountain Biking magazine.
Lewis and Clark Monument....
Overlooks the cities of Council Bluffs and Omaha Nebraska
Kanesville Tabernacle....
log replica of 1847 Mormon Tabernacle where Brigham Young was installed as president of the church 712-322-0500
Mills County
Salem Lutheran Church....
One of western Iowa's oldest buildings, was built in 1967 by German immigrants. Be careful on the winding gravel road
Mile Hill Lake....
County park has fishing in the 10 acre lake 712-527-9685
Glenwood Lake Park....
City Park features a pond with water birds, playground equipment and the 750 seat, open air Davies Amphitheater which has performances every summer weekend. Also the Mills County Historical Museum with historical building and a replica of an earth lodge.
West Oak Forest....
County Park that has trails that lead through heavy woods and grassy areas atop the ridges 712- 527-9685
Fremont County
Spring Valley Loop....
3 miles of gravel cuts through cuts on the hills. Some caves and brick faced cellar that had been part of home which disappeared long ago can be see as well as some natural stone outcroppings, a rarity in the Loess Hills.
Todd House Museum....
Built in 1853, this Reverend's parsonage was a stop on the Underground Railroad and an arsenal for anti-slavery forces 712-629-2675
Waubonsie State Park....
Known for it's exceptional fall colors and overlooks. Trails for hikers, bicyclist and horseback riders. Shelters and campsites for RV's and tents.
Hamburg....
Stoner Drug Soda fountain where you can order the unique "fried egg sundae"
Sidney....
Sidney Rodeo, one the biggest rodeos in Iowa 4 wonderful fun filled days in August. 712-374-2695
Riverton....
State's oldest original Chautauqua, Iowa Historic Site
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